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Surfing
October 18, 2016
Surfing
Standing up fast,
eyes straight ahead.
The sound of waves coming in behind me.
Boom.
The light board snapped below my feet,
there it goes.
Half the board sank and got pulled away by the incoming waves.
The other half, still strapped to my ankle
came back with the tide,
only to hit my sternum with great force and pull me under.
10 seconds pass,
Still under.
20 seconds pass,
Panic hits me.
Not knowing which way is up or down,
under so deep sand was chaffing my body
30 seconds pass,
I finally catch a breath.
© Kristin R., Los Altos, CA
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