I breathe in deeply

 my lungs fill 

with the scent 

of thick, salty, ocean air.

Hot sunlight 

warms my body,

like a warm blanket,

while the cool breeze of the ocean

 does the opposite.

 I felt the soft, smooth sand 

beneath my legs,

  I couldn’t do anything 

but remain where I was,

feeling as peaceful

as a warm spring morning.

 I stared at the sea,

 the light blue waves crashing together

as bold as a courageous lion

 as they collided and then seemed

 to glide up the wet, sandy, shore.

I watched silently and peacefully

as brave surfers rode 

the massive, crashing waves,

I stood up 

still calm, but now

with a mix of excitement.

My excitement grew

as I grabbed my bodyboard

then started sprinting

towards the waves.

I now was as excited

 as a newborn animal

opening its eyes 

for the first time

and seeing the world around it.

The waves were an eagle 

soaring up the shore.

The rocks stood firmly

not moving an inch

as the waves flew past them.

I slowed down to a walk

as my toes touched the cool water.

I felt as if I would die

if I wasn’t there right then.

With my bodyboard 

still being gripped tightly

by my hands,

I stepped further and further

into the cool, salty water.

At last, I was far enough out

for the waves to crash 

in the perfect spot.

So then I could ride them

back to shore.

I stared intensely as a wave came

gliding toward me.

It’s perfect, I thought, full of 

nothing but confidence.

As it grew nearer,

and nearer 

I got myself ready

to jump at the perfect moment.

Crash! 

The roaring waves crashed,

rushing towards me,

the water as white as snow.

I had jumped at the perfect moment,

as the gliding, roaring waves

carried me further 

and further down shore.

Until I finally stopped

on the wet, rough,

and bumpy sand.