One Morning | Teen Ink

One Morning MAG

By Anonymous

     Friday, 7:30 p.m.

A storm sitting off the north shore of Oahu is threatening to send enormous surf the following day. My dad and I frantically get the jet ski, surfboards and other gear ready for what may prove to be a huge day of tow-in surfing. We call and tell our friends, Brian and Keke, to meet us at the harbor the next morning.

Getting to sleep that night is the hardest thing I have ever done; how could I go to sleep with so many thoughts flowing through my head?

Saturday, 5 a.m. I crawl out of bed and check the surf report. Sure enough, a colossal swell is hitting, so we grab our gear and head to the north shore.

5:45 a.m. We meet our friends at the harbor. Though the sun begins to creep up over the ocean, we are still only able to hear the waves crashing far out like thunder that shakes your chest and the ground around you; we can only imagine what we’re in for. We back the skis down the ramp into the water, shaking with excitement.

6 a.m. The sun has risen and we get our first glimpse of the surf. Perfect 30 foot waves crash a mile out in the boundless ocean. We hop on the skies and head out for a perfect day of surfing with friends.

6:45 a.m. A mile out, and I’m up first. I sit in the dark water trying to stay calm while waiting. My heart races, my hands and legs shake from the cold water or excitement, I can’t tell which. On the horizon we see the set waves coming like monsters marching over a hill; my dad starts the ski and we get ready for the first wave. I get up on my board, the waves come and I signal my dad to pull me into the second one by holding up two fingers. Ten miles per hour, 20, 40, 50 - the ski is screaming, but we need all the speed we can get to keep up with the giant waves. The chop on the water bounces me around and my legs take all the shock they can; the straps on my board are all that keep my feet attached. I begin to feel the power of the wave pushing me and the tension on the tow rope is gone; it’s just me and the wave. With the wave still only a swell, it is quiet. I fade deeper into the wave for more speed and it begins to throw over and break. It gets louder, as if a train is following. I carve up and down the wave flowing smoothly. It puts me into a euphoric state as I become in tune with the wave, getting to know its every move and curve. I completely forget about the world.

But just as fast as it came, it leaves, never to be seen again. I ride off the shoulder of the wave looking back at my dad and friends with my hands in the air and the spray of the fading wave raining on me, a smile overtaking my face. I had done what I came to do, and felt the best sense of accomplishment I ever had.

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