Going boarding till a wave knocked me over. Lost at sea with no board I thought I would die there and then. Chapter 1: The wave

Memoir #2
Harder and Harder to Breathe


Kicking and pulling myself to break the surface for a sweet breath of air.

Hawaii, Kailua Kona 2010 ,Kua Bay.
It was a breezy winter afternoon, swells were topping up to 8 ft. I had just gotten a brand new body board. Eager to test it out I carelessly ran toward the raging sea.
This was the first time in the ocean that winter, not knowing that the waves are more murky and huge also excessive amount of white wash. Clutching a board under my arms, walking up to the beach while the taste of salt tantalized my tongue as the rancid stank of fish pierced my nostrils. Diving into an oncoming wave appearing on the other side, then again on a smaller wave and again till I was a reasonable distance from shore. Where I would sit on my board and linger, waiting for the big waves. The beach was not a surfing beach where there were 30 ft huge swells with dangerous reef and sudden drop offs. Unlike other beaches, this one just slowly descended to the sea and just sand for miles no coral or any reefs, so big waves were uncommon. Other bodyboarders joined me in the intention of catching a “mondo” wave. A wave so big every dog would feel it coming. Regardless of my safety I would go deeper into the ocean hoping to impress the older bodyboarders, anticipating for, that wave that will trample every other wave.
While I sat on my board the strap on my leg (connecting me to the board) had sand in the Velcro and was rubbing and irritating me. Without a care in the world, I tore the strap off, tieing it to the board relieved from that constrictive strap.
Sitting on my board contemplating life “what would I eat when I came home, can't wait to go to school tomorrow, hope I don't get attacked by a shark” I see a rise of water not that far out. Like something big was approaching, till the bump got bigger, and closer I noticed it was just a wave, reassuring myself that it was all in my mind. As usual, I was ready to dive into the wave holding my board. It was drawing near, so I took an enormous breath, faced the wave bending down and pushed through, underestimating that the wave was forcible. By taking the board out from under me, 8ft under water and without a board I didn't care at the time. Thrusting myself to the surface thinking the board would be next to me, then recollecting that I took to strap off. Rapidly rubber necking for my board, scared I lost it, was just a small part of my worries.
No board, and in the middle of nowhere I would surely drown about five minutes in. Flapping my arm in the air, gasping for air, treading water for what was like minutes felt like hours. Not know how I would get back to shore. I was going to die in the most beautiful place on Earth, filled with laughter and “I hear babies cry and watch them grow”. Those lyrics were running through my head. My imagination started to run wild
“Look under you there might be a shark”. Knowing if I started to panic, I would drown, staying calm and thinking of ways my funeral would go “I’m too young, I want to go to college drive a car,what will my parents think, I don't think they could handle it”. My emotion took the better of me, knowing that they won't find my body, until three days after when my lifeless corpse washes up on shore. Thinking of the things I should've said to my family before we left “I should’ve been nicer to my brothers, I never told my parents I love them”. After awhile of treading I gave up knowing no one will see me this far out. If I was just a tad bit closer I could get caught up in a wave and use my body as a board.
Kicking and pulling myself to break the surface for a sweet breath of air, it felt like something kept pulling me down to the bottom. The strenuous task of treading for minutes took a toll on me, needing more air every time I kicked and pulled myself up. The salty sea was battling my arms and legs “she'd” try and take me down, and i'll push back up devoted to keeping myself up I pushed through the need to rest, trying to get anyone's attention. Every cry for help lead up to a mouth full of salty water. Tried and afraid I saw a glimmer of hope, coming over the horizon was a shadow of my savior, my board came back like a trusty steed to the courageous knight fighting a scaly serpent (The sea). Only about 9ft away from me it was a treacherous journey to get there. Wave after wave I rose and fell “if I got the board I could ride to safety” I couldn't reach the board when i'm using all my limbs to stay afloat. This could of been my last time to get to shore if a massive wave came through it would take my board back to the beach. Adrenaline flew through my veins as I stretched my arms and caught the slippery piglet (board). Taking the strap off the board and lassoing it around my foot. As I paddled my way back to the nearest wave I got under it and it threw me to the ground, tumbling and crashing once again under water. Holding my breath for several seconds, I kicked off the ground got air, then one more wave knocked me off my board, as I hurry to get my board several waves took a bite out of me. Struggling to get on my board with no effort I let the wave take me. A gentle push sets me gliding down the water.
Riding back, I knew it was over, I knew I would wake up tomorrow, I knew I would still have to go to school. Washing up on shore like a beached whale I gasped for air flopping around. I’d thought everyone was happy to see me back but turns out no one knew I was gone.